John's Grill, 63 Ellis Street, San Francisco; tel. (415) 986-0069TO SAN FRANCISCO with a couple of old friends to see a new Tom Stoppard play, and where to eat dinner before? Why not go to John's Grill for liver and onions?
I hadn't been there in years; Gaye and John even more years; Lindsey never. But it's three (long) blocks from the theater and very reliable, read utterly consistent. The Martini (ordered with any gin, good vermouth, three to one, olives) was very nice indeed, and the liver and onions (ordered medium rare) put da Montin, in Venice, in my mind.
Well, maybe it wasn't quite up to Montin. But the liver was sweet and tender, the onions perfectly cooked, and a couple of slices of decent bacon didn't hurt. Green beans provided the vitamins, and a small slice of pecan pie the dessert.
Zinfandel Folie à Deux, Amador County, 2005