Raspberries

Lunch: raspberries from the garden. Dinner: tacos filled with beans, onion, chile pepper, tomato

EARLY JUNE: The nectarine limbs are hanging very low and need propping; the apples need thinning; the sour cherries are ripening; the raspberries are here. Like Swiss chard, raspberries always remind me of Lindsey's father, who loved every aspect of them: pruning, training, picking, eating. Lindsey has only a few bushes in her garden, and one scrappy black raspberry out by the gazebo. Picked dead ripe they need absolutely no dressing: no sugar, no alcohol, no cream; nothing but full attention while you're tasting them. They won't last forever.

Nero d'Avila