Monday, June 2, 2008

The new Café Saint Rose

Galette: favas, green garlic, morels, ricotta; salmon baked in fig leaf; asparagus hollandaise sauce; bombe: mango, strawberry, vanilla, caramel ice creams


ONE OF THE MOST CONSISTENTLY rewarding chefs, Mark Malicki, has moved his Café Saint Rose out of its odd Santa Rosa location to an attractive road house a couple of miles west of Sebastopol. In addition to discipline and intelligence, Mark brings real heart to his profession, often working at cost for a good cause — tonight, fund-raising for the July breast cancer awareness walks.

The galette had a tender, flaky, buttery crust that can't be beat; inside, it was resonant with the dark flavors of favas, morels, and garlic, brightened by ricotta. On the side, incredibly flavorful little lettuces in a mild, supportive vinaigrette. Salmon on a fig leaf: the flavor of summer grills tamed and civilized, with spring asparagus in a classic presentation. The ice creams in the bombe were smooth, fruity, creamy. Café Saint Rose remains a favorite restaurant for us, in its small, classically California way recalling that legendary Lucchese restaurant Vipore.

bon rosé de Provence

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