NOT MANY THINGS do I like more (to eat) than calf's liver, and no way of preparing it do I prefer to what I always think of as fegato venexiano, liver cooked gently in butter with a little wine and vinegar and served with sliced onions cooked in the same mixture. The polenta is obligatory.
Meeting old friends in their home city, Verona, we were taken to a simple neighborhood trattoria for dinner, and what should be on the blackboard among the night's specialties but Fegato Venetiano! On the side, indistinct in my photo, a few leaves of mâche. The liver was cooked perfectly, still pink and moist; the polenta was a little salty to my taste, but made a very nice counterpoint.
Afterward, an insalata mista, mâche again figuring amongst the lettuces. Called valeriana here, lamb's quarters in English, it's a favorite green of ours, and we've met it more than once in the last week.
La Grola, 2010 (deep and sincere, perfect with the liver)
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