Salmon

Eastside Road, August 31, 2013—

HERE'S A CLOSE-UP of salmon the way Lindsey's been cooking it lately, following a recipe in Nancy Hachisu's book Japanese Farm Food, a beautiful book well worth having whether you cook from books or not. (And why wouldn't you?)

It's simplicity in itself; the only tricky thing is timing, and a little experience takes care of that — besides, if you err on the rare side (to your taste), you can always continue cooking it a bit longer. All you do is dot the salmon with a little butter, salt and pepper it to taste, and put a flavoring agent on top — here, chives — then wrap it in aluminum foil or parchment and set it in the oven. No fuss no muss.

Of course there's the sustainability question. I have misgivings about all that aluminum foil. If you're careful, you can always re-use it…

Alongside the salmon tonight, Nancy Skall's delicious lima beans; then green salad; then ice cream with raspberries.

Rosé, La Ferme Julien, 2012