Friday, September 6, 2013

Piemontese


Venice, California, September 6, 2013—

THE RESTAURANT IS trendy, I suppose, rather expensive, and definitely Southern Californian, not what we're used to. Lindsey, for example, had a salad of watercress, hearts of palm, avocado, pine nuts, and Pecorino, too far-fetched for me.

But it was possible to order from this menu and stay in my beloved Piemonte, and so I did: squab to begin with, pan-seared (a little too long, I thought), with lentil purée and chard; then agnolotti with a nice braised oxtail sugo. Dessert: bicchierino, mascarpone, chocolate ganache, and nougat, with little ossi dei morti. A good restaurant. 
Nebbiolo, Ca' Veja, 2009 (very good indeed); Moscato, Particella "101," 2011

• il Piccolo, 5 Dudley Avenue, Venice, California; (310) 314-3222

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