ODD, HOW A FEW miles, and a couple of hours' walk, can seem to take you from one land to another — in this case, from Piemonte, or next thing to it, to Provence.
Yesterday we dined in Montgénèvre, not one of my favorite towns, but there we were. My dinner was this tartare, not very beautiful, I know, but rather delicious. It wasn't Piemontese beef, alas; in fact it was Spanish, for some reason, but it was very good, and the salad was too, and even the fries.
Today, on the other hand, we're technically in Provence. I had a Salade Niçoise for lunch, on the main street here, and it was just okay — though I have to say it was a pleasure to taste anchovies, and a hint of garlic.
Dinner, though, was off the main street, as our hotelkeeper helpfully suggested we should do: a fine duck confit, and much better fries, and then a salad whose leaves were not watery as they had been at lunch.
Wine, as usual, of the house…
• Restaurant le Jamy, Montgénèvre
• Le Gavroche, 40, Grande Rue, Briançon
• Le Rustique, 36, rue du pont d'Asfeld, Briançon