vin ordinaire en pichet
• Réfuge Ma Vielle École, Roya, Alpes-Maritimes
July 14, 2013: we celebrated both Stefan's birthday and Bastille Day with a long all-day hike, culminating in a half-hour dash throigh thunder, lightning, and hail, in a cowshed refuge, with (besides the hosts) a French couple from Lille, a young Danish man and his younger sister, a Flemish couple from Antwerp,and five or six middle-aged Genovese. Collectibely we managed to recall most of the words to La Marseillaise, and we ate Pissaladière, pork steaks in tomato sauce, potatoes, and very good very local cheese.
vin ordinaire en pichet
• Vacherie de Roure (otherwise known as the Réfuge de Longon), Roure, Alpes-Maritimes
July 15, 2013: lunch and dinner in a very old-fashioned hotel where we rested en pension: a delicious salad of tomatoes, lettuces, diced boiled ham, and a fine crisp raw spring onion, with blanquette de veau and a slice of pineapple–coconut cake for dessert at midday; tabouli and ravioli for our simpler supper.
vin ordinaire en pichet
• Relais d'Auron, St-Sauveur-le-Tinée, Alpes-Maritime
July 16, 2013: bad weather forces a temporary suspension of the Long Walk, and we are in Nice. Lunch: socca — chickpea crepes sprinkled with black pepper — and various tapenades and pissaladière and lemon tarte at a very nice place down by the port.
vin ordinaire en pichet
• Chez Pipo, 13, rue Bavastro, Nice; 04 93 55 8882
Dinner near our temporary apartment here: a composed salad involving asparagus, lettuces, hardcooked ?duck egg, and a few other things; then lotte in cream sauce, with good Camargue rice.
rosé, Chateau des Annibals (Var), ?2012
July 17, 2013: Lunch in the vielle ville at a place found by chance, where I finally had my always-longed-for soupe de poissons: the day's catch, boiled down with various flavoring agents (include pastis in that!).
Dinner in nearby La Gaude, at a friend of a friend's, a generous, intelligent, serene, benign presence who likes nothing more than cooking for, hosting, and enjoying a company of criends and conversationalists. We had panisses, and grilled sardines, and cold squid salad, and pockled fresh porcini someone had brought, and short ribs off the grill, amd salad, and tomatoes green beams carrots potatoes courgettes, and delicious bread; and a few dozenfresh chevres someone had brought from a neighboring fromagerie; and Eric made a couple of delicious clafoutis, and someone else a big chocolaye mousse, and there were meringues and a few bottles of rosé. We got home late.
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