Playing catchup again

Tende, July 23, 2013—

Something new to me tonight in a casual gîte in this out-of-the-way corner of France: a Greek "Caprese," I think: : watermelon, feta, raw res onion sliced thin, and lots of basil. Then a nice saumon en papillotte with potatoes; cheese; and — what! Profiteroles au chocolat? Delicious!

     Rosé en pichet

• Gîte les Carlines, Tende

Lac des Mesches, Tende, July 24, 2013—

Eating in another table d'hôte refuge tonight: soupe des legumes, cod steaks in a light cream sauce, rice, mirepoix des legumes, salad and cheeses, île flottante.

     Rosé en pichet

• Réfuge Neige et Merveilles, Tende

Sospel, July 25, 2013—

We found a particularly pleasant little bistro on the "other" side of the river, where i was happy as a clam with this quite delicious little beef tartare à la couteau. The house-made peach tart was another delight. One of the real finds on this trip!

     Rosé en pichet

• Soutt'a Loggia, 5, pl. saint-Nicolas, Sospel

Menton, July 26, 2013—

Still in search of the perfect fish soup, I asked the hotelkeeper for advice — perhaps a good idea, perhaps not. The result was just average, but average, on this coast, is still above average. 

     Rosé en pichet

• La Couille d'Or, 1, quai Bonaparte, Menton

Menton, July 27—

We returned to a modest place I enjoyed five years ago and I had this excellent salade Mentonnaise, followed by an outstanding plate of bresaola:

 With parmesan, olives, and lemon, and first-rate olive oil to pour over it all.

• Don Ciccio, 11, r St Michel, Menton

THEN IT WAS ON to Nice, where my light supper was fish soup followed by fruit compôte. The soup's not bad, I told the waiter, is it made in house? No, he smiled, That's why it's not bad. I liked him: he'd made no fuss when I'd asked for a clove of garlic to scratch on the toasts.

     Rosé en pichet

• 2 Palmiers, 15, bd Victor Hugo

Nice, July 28—

Lunch in a tourist restaurant right in the market, where we all know you're unlikely to get really good or authentic fare. Oh well. I ordered fish soup, you'll be surprised to hear, and it came with impossible little stale toasts, overly saffroned aïoli, grated cheese, no rouille, and no garlic. When I asked for a clove, There's garlic in that, the waitress sniffed, pointing at the aïoli. I know that, I said, but I'd like to have a clove of garlic, if you please. Much later she returned with a little bowl of minced garlic. The salade Niçoise I had next was too big, too full of overcooked green beans, and devoid of anchovies. 

• Chez Freddy, 22, cours Saleya, Nice