Melbourne, November 9, 2012—
AN AFTERNOON SPENT exploring the city began with lunch, of course, in a small special place my brother John had recommended: "You can't do better," the volunteer at the tourist information desk agreed. Lindsey liked her gnocchi ordered plain, with butter; I tucked into this slightly revisionist spaghetti alla carbonara — a judicious sprinkling of chopped scallions had been folded in with the egg, pancetta, and cheese. Otherwise it was quite as it would be in Rome, and, hey, when in Melbourne…Pinot grigio
• Waiters Restaurant, 20 Meyers Place Melbourne; (03)9650 1508
Mushrooms, carrot, leek, scallions, Savoy cabbage — all to be made into a delicious soup with mirin, soy sauce, a bit of butter I think, and who knows what else flavoring the broth. Added, to poach exactly the right amount of time: little cubes of yellowtail, fresh from the Australian seas. I am persuaded.
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