New Sammy

Medford, Oregon, May 17, 2012—

THE RASPBERRY IS NOT my favorite fruit: I suppose the fig is. Fruit in pastry is not my favorite dessert: I can't think what would be. But the Linzertorte is an exception to all generalizations: it is the Mozart of foods, or one of them anyway (and, like Mozart, Austrian: though here's another conundrum: Austria is surely far from the top of the list of indispensable nations).

What's the best possible plat principal to precede a Linzertorte? How about a couple of lamb chops, thick ones, local of course, perfectly grilled, pink inside, with a bit of marrow in the bone, served with spinach and orzo and mushrooms, and lightly flavored with Meyer lemon?

And before that, let's see, maybe a green salad dressed up with prosciutto and very lightly blanched apple and walnuts?

Oh yes: we're at one of the Five Restaurants, the irreducible Five, which would satisfy me for the rest of my life…

Champagne; Vouvray, Domaine Huet, 2010; St. Estèphe, Château le Crock, 2005

• New Sammy's Cowboy Bistro, 2210 South Pacific Highway, Talent, Oregon; (541) 535-2779