Risotto

Eastside Road, January 29, 2012—

LORD KNOWS WE HAVE BOTH made dozens of risottos. We agree almost completely on the method: soffritto of onions in oil with maybe a little butter; a one-kernel depth of rice grains next, moved around, until just beginning to soften; chicken stock which has been kept just under a simmer; a splash of white wine; more stock; stir stir stir;

ed e subito finito.

Where we differ is on the mechanics of the white wine: I throw it in before the stock, to cook it off quickly; she argues that this kills the cooking of the rice. The truth cannot lie in between; it must somehow transcend both points of view. But we get by.

Tonight it was her turn. Odd, how long it's been since we had a risotto here. There was one slip-up: she'd intended a classic risotto Milanese, with peas; the "peas" turned out to be soybeans, and of course were not used. Well, it's too early for peas anyhow.

The cooking wine is important. For years we had a dwindling case of superannuated Chablis, I think it was. Normally we might use Cheap Pinot grigio. But just now we have an old vintage of Joseph Swan Chardonnay, too oxidized for drinking, but fine for this purpose.

Green salad, of course; and the last of those Bosc pears in Marsala. Yes.

Cheap Pinot grigio