Ancora all'italiana

Eastside Road, January 22, 2012—

OUT TO DINNER again, you won't be surprised to hear, with a couple of new friends: francophiles and market gardeners whose lettuces we depend on through spring and summer. They'd been to this Healdsburg restaurant before; we had not, and were glad to give it a try.

Burt and I split a "Caesar" salad, in quotes for chopped Romaine and the lack of raw egg, otherwise not a bad salad at all, and thankfully with a liberal number of anchovies decorating it. I went on to Stinco d'agnello al forno, a braised lamb shank in its reduced drippings, on a bed of soft polenta, with the demi-glace and wild mushrooms and mixed vegetables on the side. Good hearty fare for a squally, rainy evening.

Rosso di Montalcino, Tenemente Angelini, 2004 (thanks, Burt and Mary: it was mature and sober and fruity and delicious); "Regale," Bordeaux blend, Ramazzotti (Alexander Valley), 2007 (oaky at first, quickly correcting itself into a nicely balanced wine)

• Baci Café and Wine Bar, 336 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg; (707) 433.8111