Ashland, Oregon, September 13, 2011—
TWO REALLY FINE meals in this oft-visited town today (we came up to see two plays, the cast-generated WillFul and a hilarious production of Molière's The Imaginary Invalid).
A favorite lunch, to begin with: a duck-confit taco, a delicious cabbage-lime-carrot salad, and a Margarita. I've written about this place several times before: for example, almost a year ago. I almost always have the same meal, sometimes with the guacamole to start with. The place is so clean; the food so fresh, wholesome, and tasty; the atmosphere so good-humored and often high-spirited, it's impossible to eat here without thoroughly enjoying yourself.
• Agave, 92 North Main Street, Ashland, Oregon; tel:(541) 488-1770
Then dinner nearby at a restaurant we don't patronize often enough. It's at the high end of the scale, a bit of a splurge; but the kitchen is really good. I had beautifully cooked halibut on a bed of quinoa with sweet pepper-cucumber salpicon and, on the side, by my special request, this bowl of immaculate wild arugula dressed simply with olive oil and salt.
Lindsey had a pork chop with braised cabbage and spaetzle; Thérèse had sweetbreads with chanterelles and bacon: before, heritage tomato salad. And my dessert was extraordinary: grilled greengage plums and vanilla ice cream with fine olive oil, fleur de sel, and pine-nut sablée.
Quincy, Jacques Rougé, 2009 (clean, bright, soft)
• Amuse Restaurant, 15 North First Street, Ashland, Oregon; (541) 488-9000
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