Next Door

Oakland, California, August 7, 2011—

A PLEASANT PIANO RECITAL here at four o'clock, but where to have dinner afterward, on a Sunday night? We turn to Open Table to find out what's available, and are quickly reminded of a place we've been meaning to give a try.

We start out with a platter of nicely salted French fries with lemon-flavored aïoli while waiting for a couple of friends — it goes well with a Sidecar — and then I tuck into grilled skirt steak, perfectly calculated to rare, with cranberry beans and erbette chard and a strip of salsa verde to give a little point to the dish.

Afterward, cheese: an herbcrusted goat civetta from Piemonte. Very nice, with nuts, dark bread, and delicious red-wine-soaked dried figs.

Négrette, Château le Roc, "La Folle Noire d'Ambat" (Côtes de Frontonnais), 2009 (dark, sober, dry, correct)

• À Côté, 5478 College Ave., Oakland; (510) 655-6469