Corte della Pazienza, May 29, 2011—NOW AND THEN you want a vacation from vacationing; you just want to hole up at home, catch up on some reading, play some cards, eat in your own kitchen. This was one of those days. We did go out on gelato research, only to find the one I most wanted to visit had closed shop, perhaps as long as ten years ago.
Causin is no more, though the fine old wooden sign still hangs over the door on the shuttered premises.
(A café opened in the building subsequently, irreverently turning one of the awnings inside-out to hide the word “Gelateria”; it too has gone out of business, two years ago, I'm told.)
We stopped in across the Campo Santa Margherita at one of the artisanal gelaterie thought to have taken the place of such fine old family institutions. This one, Il Doge, does not rise high on our list.
So we went our way home to lunch on another leftovers: pasta in tomato-rich ragù, with plenty of parmigiano and black pepper, and a nice green salad. Then, this evening, after an apéritif of Fragolino, melon from the market on San Leonardo, and prosciutto crudo from the minisupermarket, and the last of the Castelmagno and why not another chunk of parmigiano?