40 thieves

Campiello della Pazienza, May 25, 2011—

EXACTLY AS HAPPENED ten years ago: we decided to lunch at the Anice Stellato (= star anise), a slow-sustainable restaurant with a good reputation; we checked its hours to make sure it would work; we walked over at lunchtime; we couldn't get in. Not, this time, because it was full: because it was closed.

Sign in window:

TORNO
PRESTO, MA
NON SUBITO

(I'll be back soon, but not immediately). Inside, though, someone was working a mop, so I asked if they'd open. Yes: tomorrow.
Two other American tourists stood disconsolately outside, wondering what was the deal, so I explained. And we checked, they said, and they were supposed to be open today.

So we did just what we did ten years ago, and walked back thirty feet along the Fondamenta della Sensa to the Quaranta Ladroni, and had lunch. This time we ate in a nice little garden terrace out back, not on the Fondamenta, where we shared a portion of sarde in saor and then went on to baccalà mantecato, a Venice classic: salt cod whipped up with cream, served with polenta. Two purées, white and yellow: too hot today to chew!

White wine in carafe

• Osteria ai 40 Ladroni, Fondamenta della Sensa, Sestiere Cannaregio 3253, Venice; 041 715736