Hotel Aurora, Milan, November 1, 2010—
WE THINK WE KNOW Milan by now, but: we arrived hungry a little after one o'clock after a slow rainy drive from Asti, and having cooled our heels while the room was being made ready we didn't want to drive anywhere, and didn't want to take the time to do much research, and it's Monday when restaurants tend to be closed, and it's a holiday ditto ditto, so.
We just walked down the street to the Bar Miró and had a club sandwich — ham cheese and tuna for me, with a glass of Dolcetto. I'm not in principle agreeing with the idea of mixing fish and meat, or fish and cheese, or fish meat and cheese. For that matter I think it bad luck to eat fish of any kind on a rainy day; that's just the kind of received knowledge I run on. But what can you do.
Dinner was, wouldn't you know, at a fish restaurant. After endless trawling of Zagat and a number of other sites we settled on Da Giacomo, which sounded really nice and wasn't all that far away. Lindsey had a plate of pappardelle with porcini and a big platter of grilled vegetables; I had a cotelette alla Milanese, forgetting it was nothing but an enormous breaded veal cutlet with a half lemon, and spinach in butter on the side, because it's a very favorite vegetable of mine. It was all perfectly fine, and the bread they serve here — mother-in-law's tongues, flatbread, a thick kind of grissini, and even a whole-grain bread of some kind, is very good indeed.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Planeta (Sicily), 2008
Da Giacomo, angolo via Benevenuto Cellini e Pasquale Sottocorno (no. 6), Milan; tel. 02 76023313