What to think?

Rue des Petits Ecuries, Paris, June 8, 2010—

THE GUIDEBOOK SUGGESTED that a nearby restaurant was particularly interesting, and Lindsey recalled seeing a mention of it in David Lebovitz's blog, so we gave it a try.

It is indeed an interesting place, with full-sized cartoons painted on the dark red walls, odd chandeliers from the flea market, a cat strolling the dining room, big boxes of produce standing just inside the front door. You do feel you're eating in someone's private home -- Miss Haversham's, perhaps.

We ate à la carte, not the cheapest way to go; and everyone had the same thing: wild asparagus and morels to start, then pan-fried turbot. Everyone but me: I had a fascinating sautée of artichokes, carrot, turnip, onions, and an oddly flavored thyme; then slow-braised lamb with vegetables.

The flavors here are very deep and as if wildly scented; I'm not sure what to make of it. At times it was as if I were in the Provençal garrigue, not a bad place to be; at other times it was almost as if some Indian spice were being added to the dish. ("Certainly not," said the waiter, when I suggested it.)

My dessert: four delicious prunes beautifully swollen from the red wine they'd been cooked in, with a fat slice of citrus zest.

A glass of Vouvray petillant; T. Joseph, Pierre Gonon, 2008 (demi-bouteille)

Restaurant Pétrelle, 34, r. Pétrelle, Paris; tel. +33 (0)1 42 82 11 02