Paris Re-run

Rue des Petits Ecuries, Paris, June 6, 2010—

WE WERE DOWN BY the Place de la Bastille for a tango concert in an Armenian church — I know that sounds improbable — and didn't really want to eat in that neighborhood, so we strolled into the Place des Vosges where I remembered eating at a quiet little neighborhood restaurant fifteen years ago. Nothing had changed. It's not great, perhaps not even really very good, but perfectly adequate when you don't feel like researching or delaying and you're hungry and willing to settle for good enough. I wanted lamb, and had three loin chops, cooked too slow and long, but piled on a stack of very nice haricots verts. The waiter forgot to bring the green salad.

Côtes de Rhone

La Place Royale, 2bis, Place des Vosges, Paris; tel. +33 (0)1 42 78 58 16