Zutphen, June 6—
I DO LOVE THIS TOWN, a beautifully preserved but very lively Hanseatic town on the river IJssel just a few kilometers east of today's destination, Apeldoorn. We stopped here to change trains on a ride up from Nijmegen, and recalling that it was market day took a stroll down the principle street, stopping off at a traditional Dutch cafe for lunch. Lindsey had a Niçoise innocent of anchovies but apparently satisfactory otherwise; I had a Greek salad, with frisée and other lettuces, feta, olives, and onions, with decent bread and delicious herb butter to help it along.
Dry white house wine
We'd hoped to have tea at my favorite teashop, De Pelikaan, in the same street, but it was jammed, so we just took the train on to Apeldoorn where, before a light supper of nuts and apples, we took a chance on a Saturday Martini at the nearby hotel bar. It was made with sweet white vermouth, alas, and garnished with a lemon slice. Oh well: when in Rome…
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