Back at Marius

Amsterdam, June 10, 2009—

HOW IS IT POSSIBLE for two restaurants to be so nearly opposite in so many ways, and so similar in others? I had nearly the identical succession of courses, composed of a nearly identical inventory of ingredients, last night at Salentein, tonight at Marius. In both cases the ingredients were pristine, the flavors forthcoming and untainted. The first explanation to come to mind is this: at Salentein the flavors are all there, and they say Come find us, come enjoy us. At Marius the flavors are all there, and they dash forward eagerly. In different political times I'd say Salentein's feminine, Marius is masculine. I like each.

This time there were eight of us at the long table, changing seats between courses to facilitate conversation. (Down at the other end of the table sat a couple of "strangers," not part of our party; but it turned out one of them looked familiar because she'd been at the frituur conference a couple of weeks ago.) The restaurant was pretty well full, as it has been since a very favorable review appeared last month in the New York Times. Once again, I ordered the daily market menu:

Olives and salami
Salad: red mullet on a bed of spinach, artichoke hearts, with a perfect small glazed carrot
Poached plaice on risotto with peas, asparagus, and leeks
Lamb breast and shoulder au jus, with potato, fava beans, and a stewed tomato
Cheeses
Pistachio polenta cake, vanilla ice cream, and lightly cooked cherries

As you may have noticed, comparing this with our dinner of May 20, the menu at Marius has quite a consistent concept. I could happily eat here three times a week, though, for the flavor and nutrient quality of the kitchen and the comfort of the dining room. The flavors are full and forward, like the enthusiastic conversation of a trusted old friend: but nothing else about Marius clamors for attention; your old friend doesn't seek to impress you with noisy rhetoric or expensive clothes.

Cava; Sauvignon (Touraine); rouge (Touraine) (both François Chidaine)

Marius, Barentszstraat 243 (wester eilands); tel. +31.(0)20.422.7880