Shell pasta with peas

Eastside Road, June 17, 2015—

YES, WELL, TIME to catch up again. Sunday we had Jeff's delicious shell pasta in cream sauce with fresh peas and Parmesan, and you can't do much better than that. Monday, sorry, I forget. It's been that kind of week: too much work to do, too much of it outside in the heat, too many things on my mind.

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YESTERDAY'S DINING WAS odd because of schedules. Lunch was a quick nettle-and-pecorino pizza from the Café Chez Panisse, and it was tasty — I do like nettles, once they're cooked. And then, at four o'clock, a hamburger at Zuni, because we were on our way to an opera at six. (Les Troyens; fabulous opera; well sung; disconcertingly produced.) Zuni's hamburgers are big, juicy, made of decent beef, and accompanied by terrific pickled onions. The fries are shoestring and very good. We'd begun with anchovies with Pecorino, a marvelous appetizer, and for dessert… what a surprise! A meringue a foot across, loaded with subtle peach-leaf ice cream and pieces of raw peach, for Lindsey's birthday! What a treat!

Champagne: thanks, Gilbert!

• Zuni Café, 1658 Market Street, San Francisco; 415.552.2522
☛Restaurants visited in 2015 are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants