Duck leg and salmon

Eastside Road, June 20, 2015—

TWO OF MY favorite dishes; two of my favorite places to eat; two consecutive days. Yesterday it was the plate you see to the left: a perfectly cooked duck leg, crisp on the outside, redolent with duck fat and salt; with it, green beans, escarole, and porcini on toast. I'd had a fine salad before, and a delicious dessert afterward (caramel-stracciatella ice cream, chocolate sauce), but it's the duck stays with me.

Aprémont; Dolcetto blend

• Café Chez Panisse, 1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley; 510.548.5525

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TONIGHT WE DINED at home, on fresh-caught salmon that I'd grilled over fruitwood coals, along with some spring onions. The salmon had nothing on it but salt and a little bergamot zest (rescued from my Martini, if you want to know), and it was first-rate. With it, broccoli and favas; green salad afterward.

Cheap Pinot grigio

☛Restaurants visited in 2015 are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants