Well, every week!

Eastside Road, July 1, 2014—

TWO HIGHLIGHTS this past week, which I'll describe in reverse chronological order, ending with a little apology.

First, this splendid locally raised grass-fed beef tri=tip, which I simply salted on getting it home, left to stand a day, then grilled over charcoal and grape-vine cuttings, seasoning it further only with a few sprigs of myrtle. Those are zucchini and summer squash you see scattered around it, and a few of Fraco Dunn's incomparable Provençal sausages.

We'd started with guacamole and padrones, then sat down to the beef with Lindsey's fine rice salad, which involves celery and onions — I'm sure we'll have it again this summer; when we do, I'll try to remember to post the recipe here.

And for dessert Lindsey made her noyau ice cream, served with sliced peaches. What a fine Sunday supper!

Cider, Devoto Orchards (Sonoma County): Gravenstein (clean, very dry, a little austere); "1976" blend (very similar but a little more forthcoming): both of these are fine alternatives to a dry white wine (thanks, Jeff and Ina)
Riesling, von Hövel (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer), 2005: graceful, generous, soft
Syrah, Château Voiture (grapes from Unti Vineyard), 2004: Mature, deep, beautifully balanced (thanks, John!)
Petite Sirah, Preston of Dry Creek, 2011: not quite ready, fruity, promising

THE OTHER HIGHLIGHT had been dinner last week in Berkeley. Lunch wasn't bad, either, come to think of it: we had a salad, then a plate of charcuterie in Oakland, and even splurged on dessert because, well, there was a peach Pavlova on the menu, a delicious affair on a nicely made meringue.

• Wood Tavern, 6317 College Avenue, Oakland; 510-654-6607

But it was dinner that stood out, downstairs at Chez Panisse. We began with poached local salmon served with sautéed squid in a warm corn relish lightly flavored with ginger, a wonderful blend of Japanese and California cuisines, and went on to grilled lamb, and finished up with a delicious apricot tart with cardamom ice cream that recalled the ginger of the first course perfectly — I do love these taste-bracketed menus.

Incrocio Manzoni (Riesling-Pinot Bianco cross), Istituto Agrario San Michele all'Adige, 2011: absolutely charming, soft, full of flavor;
"Ko" (Touraine), vintage?, fruity, ample

• Chez Panisse, 1517 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley; 510-548-5525