New restaurant in town

Eastside Road, July 19, 2014—

LUNCH IN THE CITY today, well, the local city, not San Francisco, which we old-timers still refer to as The City. Lunch isn't really a very good test of a restaurant, perhaps, but on the basis of this lunch, and of the interesting wine list, I'm sure we'll be back before too long. For dinner.

I had a hamburger — two thick patties of ground beef, a little on the lean side, with delicious bacon, with the obligatory (to me) tomato, onion, and lettuce; aïoli; a fine dill pickle on the side; and quite professional shoestring french fries. And then dessert: Apricot tart with Bavarian cream (a dish I love: it always makes me think of Berlioz's Evenings in the Orchestra).

Bohigas Xarello (Catalunya), 2011: crisp, easy but serious, very pleasant; Ribeira Sacra, Adega Vella Mencia, 2011: sober, fruity, earthy, nicely made

• Pullman, 205 Fifth Street, Santa Rosa, California; 707-545-4300SO ALL WE NEEDED for dinner was a big green salad (with Alta's delicious quince vinegar in the dressing), sliced tomatoes, and some very good Brie.