Carbonarish

Walnut Creek, July 25, 2014—

LONG HOT DAY today, driving from Ojai to Fresno, then home. We knew we'd hit traffic if we didn't stop en route and kill a little time, and remembered an Italian spot we'd heard about somewhere, so we stopped off in this town for supper.

I started with an okay Martini and a nice big arugula salad, with shaved fennel, a few slices of roasted pear, some walnuts, and crumbled soft goat cheese, dressed with a walnut oil vinaigrette — quite refreshing.

On, then, to the primo, and why not try the pasta carbonara? But when it arrived it was not spaghetti but these penne, and it featured not only peas but basil… still, though not very authentic, it was a pleasant dish. There's more to life than authenticity.

Pinot grigio, Estancia, 2012

• Massimo Ristorante, 1604 Locust St, Walnut Creek, California; (925) 932-1474