Eating away

Los Angeles, July 24, 2014—

YES: IT'S PIZZA, and pretty good, considering the site. In fact we've eaten here before and found it perfectly acceptable, and Praxiteles knows convenient enough, when you're bent on another look at a fabulous show of sculpture by Alexander Calder.

This was a "Roman" pizza, innocent of cheese, nothing but the dough, San Marzano tomatoes, Taggiasche olives (whatever they are), garlic and caper flavored olive oil, and oregano — reminding me of how much I do like oregano: why don't we use it more often? There's a huge plant out the kitchen door…

Beer: Hop Rod Rye, Healdsburg

•Ray's at Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 5905 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles; 323 857-6000