Eastside Road, December 17, 2013—THOSE ARE DELICIOUS potato croquettes: papas a la Huancaina,
Yukon gold potatos with ají amarillo‐feta sauce on butter lettuce; with chopped hard‐boiled egg and olive inside. The thin-sliced red onions, nicely salted almost to the point of pickling, added just the right touch of flavor and texture.
They were the first course of dinner at a favored local joint, with a couple of favorite old friends. I went on to Adobo de Chancho, a braised pork stew marinated with Chicha de Jora, whatever that is, and Peruvian beer and peppers, served with rice, Peruvian beans, camote frito and salsa criolla — again, whatever they are; I'm simply reproducing the online menu
Dessert: Suspiro limeño de lucuma: manjar blanco (caramel custard), topped with meringue flavored with port and cinnamon. The lucuma is an interesting fruit whose flavor is said to combine maple and sweet potato, neither particularly to my own personal taste: but it was so delicate as to elude me after the pork stew and the syrah.
We like this place. Very unassuming and straightforward, and you can hear your companions' conversation.
Syrah, McManis (Ripon)• Sazón Peruvian Cuisine, 1129 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa, California; 707.523.4346