A hamburger…

Oakland, California, November 1, 2013—

WHAT A WAY to begin another month of meals: in a downtown dive, taking me back nearly thirty years to my life as an inkstained wretch, eating a hamburger and fries with a glass of red wine.

Well, it could be worst. They've done nice things with the ground floor of the old Tribune Tower, installing a big bar surrounded by booths and tables, some spilling out onto the sidewalk it seems. If the old Trib had a bar like this downstairs, instead of the Classified Department, and had kept its reporters drinking at home instead of walking down the street, they might still be in business.

We'd had a nice tuna sandwich here a few weeks back, so hadn't hesitated to take a friend there for lunch. She and Lindsey seemed to like their grilled cheese sandwiches, but I found my hamburger too big, too rich — I shouldn't have eaten the whole thing at one go, especially not with all those french fries.

And as Oakland hamburgers go, I prefer the one at Hopscotch, as it came a few weeks ago, with a slice of griddled tongue on top…

Still…

Barbera, Preston of Dry Creek: big and rustic

• Tribune Tavern, 401 13th St Oakland, California; (510) 452-8742