Brunch for lunch

San Francisco, October 26, 2013—

SPENT THE MORNING strolling among the di Suvero sculptures at Crissey Field and listening to Lisa Bielawa's Crissy Broadcast, for possibly hundreds of musicians — bands, orchestras, drum corps, a chorus, a band of Chinese instruments — but where shall we have lunch?

We thought of four or five places, but none of them turned out to offer lunch on a Saturday. I finally turned to Open Table, and was immediately reminded of a place we've wanted to try, but never think about.

In the meantime we'd run into a couple of friends whose son, it turned out, was playing drums in the extravaganza. One thing led to another, and we met for lunch.

I started with a Fernet and soda, then plunged into this quite succulent short-rib hash, with poached eggs and hollandaise sauce. Dessert was a platter of four big cigar-shaped brioche beignets with chocolate sauce on the side.

Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre, Gerard Bertrand, Côtes du Roussillon, 2008: very nice

• Presidio Social Club, 562 Ruger Street, San Francisco; (415) 885-1888

Once back home to Eastside Road, nothing more was needed but a Martini and a gougère from B. Patisserie, 2821 California Street, San Francisco; (415) 440-1700