Portuguese

Eastside Road, December 8, 2012—

A NEW RESTAURANT IN TOWN, opened just four days ago, with a Portuguese theme and menu — a real departure for our town, Healdsburg, where the menus are overwhelmingly California-Italian, with just a few Mexican places and one Japanese. So, of course, we got in touch with our best friends: Gaye's half Portuguese, her mother having immigrated from the Azores.

I started with these two meaty Monterey Bay sardines, nicely grilled and served in a pleasant vinaigrette; and then I went on to a fine bacalhao casserole. Lindsey had the same: we do love our salt cod. Dessert? Sure: I had the "Traditional" trio: a tasty rice pudding with a hint of piri-piri and a madeira-braised dried fig; four light little malassadinhas beignets, and a triangle of almond ice cream sandwiched in figgy cake. This is a nice place, and we'll be back.

Verdejo blend, Pomares (Douro), 2011 (good varietal, nice body, a very pleasant wine)

• Café Lucia, 235 Healdsburg Street, Healdsburg, California; 707.431.1113