Pork chop

San Francisco, July 6, 2012—

DOWN TO THE BIG City, with its capital "C," as we Berkeleyans always were taught to call it, here to see Mozart's The Magic Flute with a friend, and first to enjoy a Martini and an early supper at a favorite spot, too long neglected.

I first came here shortly after it opened, back in the 1980s I think. Since then, and for quite a while now, it's been under different management, shared by our old friends Judy Rodgers and Gilbert Pilgram. But it remains friendly, open, well lit, and a little bit eccentric; and I do like it.

The Martini was fine, just as I'd ordered it, three to one with a twist. Then I went on to in-house cured anchovies with celery, Parmigiano, and olives, a standby here; and then this delicious pork chop accompanied by slow-roasted onion, kale salad, and breadcrumbs. Caramel ice cream's on the list? Fine: make me an affogato of that, please, and I'll be awake all through the opera!

Vermentino di Gallura, Piero Mancini (Sardinia), 2010: clean, bright, accurate

• Zuni Café, 1658 Market Street, San Francisco; 415-552-2522