Lardo

Portland, Oregon, July 21, 2012—

WE'RE A DISORDERLY group, I confessed to the nice young man behind the counter, Please be patient with us. He was, and the ten of us got our orders in relatively quickly, and sat at a couple of tables with our drinks. Little by little the food arrived, and it was, well, here's that word again, delicious.

I settled for grilled mortadella with provolone, marinated peppers, and a nice mustardy aïoli, on a ciabatta bun from Fleur de Lis, one of the many good bakeries in this fortunate city, with a side of french-fries heightened with herbs and Parmesan, and another of cold marinated broccoli rabe with red-pepper flakes. A fine lunch.

Fernet and soda; Peroni beer

• Lardo, 1212 SE Hawthorne Blvd, Portland; (971) 269-5853