New Sammy's lamb

Talent, Oregon, July 13, 2012—

FRIDAY THE THIRTEENTH it may be, but it's always good fortune to be in this cozy dining room, one of three or four in the old building, with the cheerful cow wallpaper, the shelves of books and bottles, and the friendly service.

The amuse was a delicious paté on a sliver of rough rye bread, just the right proportions for all the textures and flavors to lock in together. Then a complex first-course plate: a soft, beautifully textured vegetable mousse surrounded by a mirepoix of crisp or barely cooked fresh vegetables from the garden.

Then, how could I resist it, these lovely local lamb chops, grilled just au point, with a creamy risotto laden with peas, asparagus, and favas, each preserving its own texture and flavor but contributing to a rich, perfectly integrated dish.

Dessert: salt caramel ice cream with pecan torte slices. Memorable.

Champagne; Bordeaux, 2010

• New Sammy's Cowboy Bistro, 2210 South Pacific Highway, Talent, Oregon; (541) 535-2779