Baker's Dozen

Eastside Road, November 8, 2011—

I'VE PROBABLY WRITTEN here before about Bakers Dozen — yes, here it is, just a year ago. The group comprises professional and amateur bakers, who meet to share ideas, resources, and enthusiasm about the various dimensions of baking. I always enjoy these meetings, partly for the information they offer — I always learn something — and even more for the reassurance they offer about the basic goodness and generosity of these women (and they are mostly women, though a number of men are just as committed to the organization.

The meetings are held at a favorite restaurant of ours, too, and lunch is always delicious. Today we had a mixed chicory salad with lemon-anchovy vinaigrette, a crisp pappadum, and grated Piave; then sesame-coated crisp-fried chicken with a cheddar biscuit and spiced kale set off by Moroccan honey. Dessert: a little chocolate pot de crème with a discreet pâte sablée cookie.

All around us dedicated professional and amateur cooks were polishing off their lunches; every plate I saw was perfectly bare when the meal was over. Everyone knew this was delicious. And what bravery, serving a biscuit to a company of bakers! (And it was as tender and perfect a biscuit as I've ever seen.)

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