Pork, North African style

San Francisco, March 23, 2011—

HERE WE ARE in a nice apartment for a couple of days with a couple of old friends. Cheaper and quieter than a hotel, nicely situated, a walk from a restaurant we really like — so, of course, that's where we went for supper.

They'd just got off a nonstop from Amsterdam, and wanted to eat light. I've missed my fast for far too long, and also wanted to eat light. I ordered just a main course, roasted pork tenderloin with arichokes, cauliflower, picholines, chickpeas, and harissa: but before that we had a little apéritif, hot lemonade with camomille and Grand Marnier; and then the chef sent out a little shot-glass with vegetable soup — celery-root, I'd say, with a float of white truffle oil.




It was all truly delicious. The pork was intensely flavored and beautifully colored, the textures counterpoising nicely. Dessert was silly: a chocolate Martini made with chocolate, vodka, and Kahlua. And did I mention how much I like the service here?

Pigato, Le Russeghine, Riccardo Bruna (Liguria), 2007

Foreign Cinema, 2534 Mission St., San Francisco; 415.648.7669

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