Sunday Salmon

Eastside Road, Healdsburg, October 18, 2009—

WE DIDN'T GET to the farm market in Healdsburg yesterday (Saturday), so we drove down to the neighboring town to the south, Sebastopol, to go to this morning's Sunday market. It's a little bigger, with more prepared foods and more crafts items, seems to me; but two of the provisioners we most rely on were there: Nancy Skall with her delicious Spanish "Musica" broad beans, her delicious "Willow leaf" limas, and her infectious dry wit; and The Fish Guy with his fresh wild Coho salmon, his halibut and oysters, and his tales of his life as a detective. So, after an irregular Martini — because of our trip to the Futurist banquet in San Francisco we'd taken a rain check on our Saturday Martini — it was broiled salmon with lemon juice, fresh-dug purple potatoes, and those limas. Earlier we'd had another Crane melon. What a fine season this is!

Sancerre, André Vatan "Les Charmes," 2006