Middelburg, Netherlands, May 28—
A HARENGBROODJE for lunch: a raw herring, boned and gutted, sweet as milk, nestling in a bed of chopped raw sweet onions in a soft white bun.
Dinner in a bruinbar, one of those traditional Dutch pubs, cozy and woody, full of locals: the Mug (pronounced "mookh," and meaning "mosquito"). I had gestoofde varkenfilet: cubed pork, breaded and praised and served in a cream sauce. On the side, French fries, fat and happy, and a cucumber-chives-lettuce salad.
House wine, Merlot (South Africa)
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