Amsterdam, May 20—
IT IS ONE OF our favorite restaurants, and I think one of the best: Marius, a small, cozy restaurant seating perhaps thirty, rarely turning a table, with a single "market menu" and a couple of steady extras to choose from, and a knowing wine list. It doesn't hurt that its owner and chef is a dear friend: Kees Elfring, part of our Dutch family. I had the menu, of course:
olives and salami
salad: tuna, green and white beans, tomato, eggplant, squid
cod with green and white asparagus, morel beurre blanc
veal (rump, cheek, and kidney) au jus, jerusalem artichoke purée
cheeses
raspberry tart, vanilla ice cream
Cava; Sauvignon (Touraine); rouge (Touraine) (both François Chidaine); vins doux: Maury, Domaine Jorel (blanc); Musset Roullier (raisins confits) (blanc)
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