Roux, Portland

Portland, April 27—

WE VOTED ON IT, and I won: dinner tonight at Toro Bravo. But when we called for a reservation the one table they had big enough — there are seven of us — was already taken, so we went instead to Roux (1700 N Killingsworth St., Portland; tel. (503) 285-1200). And it was fine. I began with a classic Sazerac (Cognac, Peychaud bitters, and Absente); then moved on to a half order of muffaletta salad (romaine, cold cuts, provolone, olive relish and vinaigrette, with a savory beignet) before tackling two more half orders: rabbit pappardelle with cipollini and mushrooms; grilled asparagus. No room for dessert. I like Toro Bravo, but I like Roux just as much.

Rioja, Vina Izadi, Crianza