Ashland, April 22—
IT TURNS OUT there is one thing better than dinner at New Sammy's Cowboy Bistro in Ashland: lunch there, followed by dinner there. Charlene Rollins is a wonderful cook and baker: a deft hand with braises and sautées; a knowing handler of fresh vegetables; a dedicated and enterprising pastry cook. Lunch was spinach-and-goat-cheese ravioli in a vegetable broth with shiitake mushrooms and shaved Reggiano, with a beautiful glass of Pinot grigio from Collio; dinner was a green-garlic custard accompanied by a ragoût of artichokes, asparagus, and the fluffiest of gnocchi, washed down with Philipponnat. Fabulous, absolutely fabulous.
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