Via della Luca Robbia, Torino, September 26, 2016—
AS YOU CAN see, we arrived precisely at 12:30, the first customers today at Consorzio. The place has been packed in the evenings, but lunch seemed slow today.
The menu is identical, and it is delicious. From it we chose:
La cruda (me)
Plin d'ortiche e seirass con alghe e baccalà (her)
Ripieno di peperoni, acciughe e bagnetto verde (her)
Agnolotto gobbo (me)
She was delighted, and why not? I had exactly that sequence last time I was here, two months ago.
I was delighted too. I'd had the cruda before; it was quite the same this time: raw minced veal tartare, the one on the left more strongly flavored, that on the right sweeter, flanking a strip of raw steak dusted in gingery panko. Olive oil, good salt, and black pepper are all the additions needed.
Perfectly cooked pasta, marbelous shredded braised veal nicely spiced, served simply in butter and a very discreet dusting of grated cheese.
Panna cotta, innocent yet unctuous; on the side, small garnishes of Barbaresco chinato, chinotto, and torrone. They're small but powerful, exactly the right amount to flavor the custard. This is truly a fine restaurant, one of the Hundred.
Filagnotti, Cascina degli Ulivi (Piemonte), 2014: golden, stemma, solid, a fine match for the cruda;
Freisa rosata Cascina Tavijn, "Rosetta" (Piemonte), 2015: garnet, rich, pleasant
Ristorante Consorzio, via Monte di Pietà 23, Torino; +39 011 2767661