Brasserie

San Francisco, March 3, 2016—

LUNCH WAS A SIMPLE roast beef sandwich — a little mustard, sliced bread — and a small spinach salad, at a friend's house. We were on our way into what we old-timey Northern Californians call The City to see a play. (Less said about the play the better.)

Pre-show supper, then: we stopped in at a new place we'd read about, thinking to content ourselves with a drink and a bar bite. The menu offered some attractive possibilities, and we ended up with a fine light supper: this competent, satisfying brandade de morue, nicely gratinéed and served with proper baguette toasts, and a very nice green salad, dressed leaf by leaf with champagne-vinegar vinaigrette, with a few toasted nuts sprinkled on.

Bon Marché calls itself a brasserie, and looks a bit like one: big, open dining space, rather full menu running to typical French items (mussels, steak-frites, brandade, etc.). I found the decor a little too yellow and fussy — scalloped awnings, for example — but it was comfortable sitting at a bar table at the window, eavesdropping on techies at the next table. (The restaurant is in the Twitter building.)

On Market at Ninth, close to the opera house, Davies Hall, and a ten-minute walk from Tenderloin theaters, it's very convenient. We'll likely be back.

Macon blanc by the glass: astringent before supper, very nice indeed with the brandade

•Bon Marché Brasserie & Bar, 1355 Market Street, San Francisco; 415-802-1700

☛RESTAURANTS VISITED, with information and rating:  2016   2015