Herring

Stockholm, December 9, 2015—

THE PLATE YOU SEE in this rather crowded photo holds the special of the day: Solare med dillsmür och potatspuré, which is to say, fried herring with dill butter and potato purée. There is also a heap of lingonberry confit, of course, and a spray of dill, and a quarter of a lemon on the side. This was a very late lunch, and stood for dinner as well; and it was consumed in a splendidly old-fashioned café in the Royal Opera House, a room which had not changed, said our waiter, since it was built, in 1904. The room was fairly empty by the time we sat down; just a few very distinguished-looking men, one eating alone, others in twos and threes, speaking alternately Swedish, English, and French — perhaps they were in town for the Nobel awards; I don't know.

The herring was really quite delicious; this seemed like a perfect dish for a bracing afternoon. My companion had meat balls with pickled cucumbers and, of course, lingonberry confit: she let me taste the meat, and it was also very nice indeed, even better than Ikea's meat balls, and I have to confess that I like Ikea's meat balls. This was a fine place to rest for an hour. I recommend it highly.

Vitt vin: "Les Volets," Domaine Boutinot (Gascogne), nv: crisp, lean, good match to the herring

•Operabaren, Karl XII:S torg, Box 1616, Stockholm; 08-676 58 00
☛Restaurants visited in 2015 are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants