Da Lucia

via di Villa Pamphili, May 24, 2015—

THIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN one of my favorite restaurants in Rome, and I wanted it to be better than it was this time. I was worried when we approached, at 9:30 pm, and saw dozens of diners at tables out in the street. Inside, the dining rooms were also full, but for the table reserved for our party of six. Still, it's a wonderful room, and good simple menu, and good honest cooking and serving, and we enjoyed ourselves.

We did order too much. Three platters of anchovies; three plates of pasta (alla gricia; caccio e pepe), two orders of long-braised chicory, two of vignarola, which I'll explain later.

Then we went on to secondi of our choice. Mine was the veal spezzatini you see above: a simple dish I've had here once or twice before, just chunks of veal, cooked in the manner of the French blanquette de veau, served with peas, such a standby in this part of the world.

Speaking of peas: Vignarola is a vegetable dish involving artichoke, peas, favas, and onion. There's a recipe here, if you read Italian; I think I'll make it when we get home, if there are still fave on the market.

And, oh, those anchovies… we do love anchovies, all six of us at the table…

Poggio d'Oro (Toscana), 2014 (like most Tuscan wines, not to my taste); rosso della casa in carafe (better)

•Trattoria da Lucia, Vicolo del Mattonato 2, Roma; 06 580 3601
☛Restaurants visited in 2015 are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants