|Duck confit with poached eggs, Five|
Berkeley, January 1, 2015—BUT FIRST, BREAKFAST. That was with a couple of friends in a hotel restaurant we hadn't visited in ages — rather bland and institutional. Everyone else ordered Eggs Benedict, but I was attracted to the duck leg confit with two poached eggs, nested atop a mound of shoestring potatoes, quite nice though hard to eat gracefully.
THE HOPPING JOHN was at my gracious cousin's table, made by her in her fine old Berkeley house, which our great-grandfather built nearly a century ago. Black-eyed peas and rice, with a few drops of Tabasco and a glass of Primitivo — perfect good-luck dish for the New Year, reminding us of the virtues of modesty and sufficiency, especially when given generously en famille… and so begins another year…