Berkeley, February 2, 2011—HERE WE ARE back down in Berkeley for the night, having dinner with an old friend. Fortunately, she's both a good cook and a good marketer. We started with a celery-root soup laced with truffled olive oil, went on to potato ravioli with artichokes à la grècque, then moved to rockfish grilled in the fireplace, served with carrots and little turnips,
a bit of cress lending further interest.
The final dish was perfect: a balance of flesh and vegetables, each flavor distinct yet contributing to an integrated final effect.
Simple, honest, authentic, and done while you watched (though the mise en place was instrumental, no doubt about it).
The requisite green salad was served under the fish, not afterward. Stroke of genius.
white wine, "Madame Preston", Preston of Dry Creek, 2009; Vaucluse, Le Pigeolet, 2008