Chicago Park (California), August 13, 2010—
MIDDAY SUPPER in the country home of a friend who retired from professional cooking a few years back to take up farming. He has not lost his chops.
There were seven of us at table: another farm couple from Southern California with their teen-aged son; Alan and his cousin Danny; Lindsey and me. Alan had made an aïoli: I think you might justifiably call it a grand aïoli: green beans, artichokes, boiled potatoes; a salad of carrots, beets, and peppers; and a delicious salted halibut with deviled eggs and anchovies. For dessert, delicious raspberries and blackberries on a fine vanilla ice cream. A beautifully executed grand aïoli is clearly one of the Hundred Plates.Erbaluce di Caluso, La Torrazza, 2008; Petit Chablis, Roland Lavantureux, 2008; Rosé, Domaine Tempier (Bandol), 2009; Reuilly, Denis Jamain (oeuil de perdrix), 2009
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