Bistro in the arctic

Rovaniemi, Finland, December 15, 2015—

WELL, PERHAPS NOT quite the arctic: we're technically eight kilometers south of it. But it is c o l d.

And yet there's a bistro. There's no question it's a bistro: there it is, steak-frites, with Béarnaise sauce. You can't ask for more proudly traditional a bistro standby.

The beef was delicious — Finnish-raised (and "finished") Black Angus, well salted, pan-fried, saignant ; Everything I always like in one hunk of protein.The Béarnaise was a teeny bit lemony, but settled in very nicely, both literally and figuratively. The whole thing sat in a pool of well-made marchand de vin sauce, and came with four slightly sautéed cherry tomatoes, a nice touch. And the fries were clean and crisp outside, soft and smooth inside, well salted, and they tasted of fresh potato. What's not to like?

Glögi Koskenkorva (because, after all, it's Christmastime);
Nebbiolo, Fontanafredda Ebbio, 2013 (woody and old-fashioned, but opening nicely)

•Ravintola Roka Street Bistro, Lh2, Ainonkatu 3, Rovaniemi, Finland; 050 3116411
☛Restaurants visited in 2015 are listed at Eatingday's Restaurants